Home to the oldest bookshop in the world, Lisbon contains a variety of excellent new and used bookstores.
Livraria Ferin
Livraria Ferin is by far the most dignified option on this list. The top floor smells of oakmoss cologne, and the clientele is just as decorous. The bookshop’s main room contains new texts in both English and Portuguese. For newcomers, you will find an unmarked staircase in the back that leads to a basement full of used books, a little café and a seating area for readings and book launches. The far back room contains a treasure trove of used books on architecture, theater, music, philosophy and more; a music history collection on Portuguese synth-pop from the 80s being my most wild find. The bookshop also has several antique pieces on display, including several old maps and an impressive Remington typewriter circa the 1920s.
Beyond the books, Livraria Ferin’s history alone makes this bookshop well worth the visit. Founded in 1840, Livraria Ferin is the second oldest bookshop in Lisbon and is still family owned. The Ferin family moved to Lisbon from Belgium during the Napoleonic Wars and opened a ‘Gabinete de Leitura’ or ‘Reading Cabinet’ in the Chiado district, where the Livraria Ferin sits today. The shop originally operated more like a library, where clients paid a small fee to borrow the books. The Ferin’s would then reinvest the money into new books, expanding their collection. Shortly thereafter, the family transitioned the store to the bookshop it is today, and by the mid-20th century, Livraria Ferin offered bookbinding services. King Pedro V had all his books bound at Ferin and eventually named the bookshop the Official Bookbinding Officer to the Royal Portuguese Crown.
Whether you are casually shopping for books or interested in the city’s literary history, this bookshop is a must-see spot in Lisbon.
Livraria Bertrand
Found in 1732, Livraria Bertrand is the oldest bookshop in the world. Starting in the 18th century, French booksellers dominated Lisbon’s book-related industries with Livraria Bertrand being no exception. A French print shop owner, Pedro Faure, opened the first version of Livraria Bertrand just down the street from the current bookshop in the Chiado district. In 1742, he would later join forces with Pierre Bertrand, a fellow Frenchman from the Alpine region. After Faure’s death, the Bertrand family took primary ownership of the store, passing it to succeeding family members. As a result, there have been several iterations of the bookshop’s name over the years, including Pedro Faure & Bertrand, Bertrand Brothers and Bertrand’s Widow & Son. After facing a setback from the 1755 Earthquake that devastated much of Lisbon, the Bertrand family rebuilt the bookshop in 1773, where it currently stands in the Chiado district.
Throughout the centuries, famous Portuguese writers have frequented Livraria Bertrand, including Alexandre Herculano, Eça de Queirós and Fernando Pessoa. Book-wise, Livraria Bertrand carries all your standard texts in both Portuguese and English at their Chiado location. Today, there are 52 branches of Bertrand throughout Portugal. All the books are new, and the Chiado stop, while well worth the visit, is quite touristy.
Livraria Sá da Costa
Livraria Sá da Costa is by far the most inviting and curious bookshops on this list. When you enter, the first thing you will notice is all the stuff. Every flat surface and available wall space are filled with statues, paintings, antiques, vinyl records, and all manner of tchotchkes. Amongst these items are bookshelves full of used books in a variety of languages, which are haphazardly labeled throughout the store. I spotted at least three sections for English books and two for German.
Despite the chaotic aura, the bookshop owner knows his stuff and is quick to assist if you are looking for a particular text. Livraria Sá da Costa buys and sells used books, so there is always a great rotation of new items. On my last visit, the entryway was full of IKEA bags of used books they had recently acquired and hadn’t yet shelved. Like the previous two bookshops on this list, Livraria Sá da Costa is in the Chiado district and a quirky stop-off for those exploring the neighborhood.
Bookshop Bivar
If I was a full-time Lisboeta, Bookshop Bivar would be my go-to spot. As the name suggests, the store is not a ‘livraria’ but rather a ‘bookshop,’ carrying English texts exclusively. They sell a wide variety of used books, including vintage and rare texts and have a separate discount room for bargain shoppers. The staff is super friendly, and everything is well organized. Located in the Santa Cruz neighborhood, Bookshop Bivar caters to the growing expat community in the city and occasionally hosts author Q&As.
Ler Devagar
One part bookshop, one part café and one part gallery, Ler Devagar, meaning ‘Read Slowly,’ has something for everyone. Using a series of stairways and catwalks, shoppers can meander through this multistoried, open space to reach the craning bookshelves of used and new books. The large room was originally used as a printing press which is still on the grounds. For being in a touristy location, the bookshop does not have a large selection of books in foreign languages; however, its location and the space itself make it well worth the visit.
Ler Devagar is situated in the LX Factory—a historical industrial complex converted into an array of chic restaurants and art galleries. The area is closed off for pedestrians, who can wander around the calm galleries by day and check out the bar scene by night. Ler Devagar also stays open until midnight Thursday through Saturday to accommodate the evening clientele.
Honorable Mentions
A few bookshops worth mentioning are Livraria Bizantina, Livraria Simão, and of course, FNAC. Livraria Bizantina is in a great location, situated just next to the Church of St. Dominic. The shop has a small but nice assortment of used travel books and old Tintin comics. For new visitors, be aware that the shop does not have a clear sign outside, but the owner usually has a few tables of books sitting in front of the store.
Livraria Simão is one of the smallest bookshops in the world, measuring just under four square meters. The space was originally a tobacco shop until the owner converted it into a tiny bookstore in 2008. The biggest downside is the open hours are more of a suggestion, as the owner will often close for the day without warning. The last honorable mention is FNAC, which needs no introduction. Like other bookstore chains, FNAC is a great choice if you are looking for a standard, reliable seller.